Secrets to decal application for antique tractors

Placing decals for antique tractors is an important part of the restoration process. There are plenty of ways to make the application process easier as the next step in your antique tractor journey. Following these guidelines can make your restoration look just like the original.

After you’ve made a record of decal locations or taken photos; and decided on the preferred type of decal, you’re ready to order and/or apply the decals. If you are applying Mylar decals to any painted surfaces, be sure the paint has cured.

Depending on the climate in which you live, curing could take anywhere from a week to a month after the tractor is painted. If a hardener was used in the paint, you may need to wait even longer to make sure the paint isn’t going to give off gas bubbles under the decal. Unlike vinyl decals, which can “breathe,” Mylar is impermeable to air and gas bubbles. So, any bubbles that form under the decal after application will stay there. Remember, some decal kits contain both vinyl and mylar decals.

Tools, supplies, and preparation

In one respect, applying decals is no different than overhauling the engine — you need the right tools and supplies before you start. These should include a ruler or tape measure; a roll of paper towels; a clean, soft cotton towel; a roll of masking tape or drafting tape; and a rubber or plastic squeegee (you can find these in most craft, automotive, and wallpaper supply stores). A sponge and grease pencil may be helpful, as well.You might also want to have a pair of tweezers handy for holding the edge of smaller decals.

In the meantime, make sure the paint surface is smooth, clean, and dry. If there are any pits or surface imperfections, the decal may not adhere properly. You need to make sure the room’s temperature is within a comfortable range.

Decals don’t do well when the air temperature or metal is too cold. If you’re applying vinyl decals on a hot surface or under bright sun, they can get too warm and stretch as you’re trying to stick them in place and smooth them out. The shop should be between around 60°F and 90°F to ensure the decals adhere correctly.

First find the proper location

Now that everything is ready, determine the proper placement based on your notes and measurements. Hold the decal in place and mark the edges with apiece of tape or a grease pencil that’s easy to wipe off when finished. You should be able to see the actual decal outline, even if it has a protective film on each side. Use tape to mark the bottom edge and one or both ends for reference points.

Then, peel off the backing and apply the numbers or letters. There are a few things to consider, depending on which type of decal you apply.

Mylar decals

If you’re using Mylar decals, make sure your hands and tools are clean and wet. This will help keep the decal from sticking to surfaces it’s not supposed to and lessen the chance of leaving fingerprints on the Mylar film. Next, fill a spray bottle with water and a single drop of soap to spray the metal surface. The purpose of the soap is to break the surface tension of the water, so you don’t need much. It gives the water a sheeting action, instead of beading up.

Another option is to substitute soap with window cleaner. Be sure to use a formula that does not contain ammonia, as it can damage the paint and cause it to fade in sunlight. Use the kind that comes in a pump-spray bottle; an aerosol can produces too many bubbles.

It may seem that water or window cleaner is used so you can remove or shift the decal around if you make a mistake, which is possible. However, the main reason you should wet a Mylar decal is so you can more easily squeeze out all the air bubbles. Remember, Mylar doesn’t breathe, so if there are any air bubbles under the decal once it dries, they will be tough to get out.

Once the decal is in the exact location you want it, use the squeegee to press the decal into place and remove any water and air bubbles from beneath it. You might want to spray some more water or window cleaner on the decal first, so you don’t scratch the decal with a dry squeegee. Start in the center and work outward in all directions. Then, use a soft cloth to dry the surface and remove any adhesive left on the surface.

Vinyl decals

Unlike Mylar decals, vinyl decals can be applied almost immediately after painting, since the material allows air and solvents to pass through. As mentioned earlier, some decal kits contain both vinyl and Mylar decals. So, you will have to treat each accordingly.

When it comes to vinyl decals, some restorers simply mark the position with a few pieces of tape, peel off the backing, starting atone end, and stick the decals in position us-ing the tape as a guide. There’s another method,

however, that can save time and reduce the margin of error, especially when you’re working with a long decal, such as a brand name decal that goes along the side of the hood.

To begin, place the decal in the correct position and “tack” it in place with a few pieces of tape. Once you have ensured it is in the right spot, run a few pieces of tape across the full length of the top. This acts as a hinge for the decal. Next, remove the pieces of tape that acted as a temporary tack, leaving only the top hinge. Now, all you have to do is lift the decal, pull off the backing and drop it back down into position. If you’re working with a long decal that has a clear dividing line, such as a “John Deere” name decal, you can sometimes cut it into two pieces, separating it between words so it’s easier to work with. To finish it off, simply press the decal in place, remove the top protective paper, and smooth everything with a soft, dry cloth.

Don’t worry if you have a few little bubbles. All you have to do is set the tractor out in the sun. The pores in the vinyl will open and allow air to permeate through the decal, leaving a smooth surface. However, don’t try to apply the vinyl decals in the sun as they may stretch.

The Ford exception

As a final note, a cosmetic change occurred in 1948, when Ford introduced its Model 8N; the Ford insignia was embossed into the hood. Not only was the lettering raised, but it was also painted red to contrast with the lighter gray hood. Later, the Ford script was also embossed into the rear fenders. This carried well into the numbered series tractors.

Consequently, today’s Ford tractor restorers have a choice on how best to apply the red coating. Several companies offer a painting mask for both the hood and the fenders that can be placed over
the script for painting the letters. Some vendors also offer a set of die-cut decals with each letter individually cut to lay on top of the raised lettering.

The choice is up to you. Some claim the mask is hard to use and requires an experienced hand to make it look good. However, the die-cut decals don’t leave much room for error either. Some experienced Ford show-tractor restorers feel the best way to apply the painted highlight to the raised hood and fender script is to have a professional sign painter hand letter it with an artist’s brush. The result, they insist, is usually well worth the cost.